When choosing a watch, many watch enthusiasts like to follow the crowd, after all, what everyone likes is basically the same, so don’t worry about making a joke. Today, Wang Hui, a watchmaker at Wang Hui Watchmaking, is here to give you a summary of the three most popular Rolex watches for men in 2021, see which one you are wearing.
The Green Ghost
Many people’s first impressions of Rolex began with the Green Ghost, which was first launched in 2010, but to this day it is still a watch that countless men can’t get enough of.
The Green Ghost has been able to maintain a high level of popularity, on the one hand because it is backed by the Rolex tree, which is a good source of cool. On the other hand, the design of the watch is very flamboyant, with its green ceramic bezel and dial,replica rolex watches which gives it a refreshing feeling. Of course, the extremely low production volume has also made it possible for consumers to want it and not get it easily, and then want it even more, keeping its popularity high.
The Cosmograph Daytona (Panda Dee)
The DiToner can be said to be an art in Rolex, since all its models have their own style of design and uniformly have a high face value; secondly, it has professional chronograph functions and can be considered a complicated model in Rolex, with an extraordinary status, watchmaker Fai.
With its classic black and white colour scheme and its panda-like dial design, the Panda Di has become the best of the DiTongna series. The black and white colour scheme means that it does not go out of fashion easily and is classic and versatile. The panda dial adds a touch of personality and style, and it is only natural that the combination of these two qualities should make it a hit.
Compared to the Aquatimer and the Diagonal, the Logbook seems a bit “small”. But the fact that it has been selling so well is a testament to its strength.
The popularity of the Logbook is due to its excellent value for money. We all know that Rolex models, especially steel sports watches, have a high premium and that a fair price is basically out of the question. The Logbook, on the other hand, although it is also a steel watch,replica watches uk it is a formal style watch with no premium and will not exceed the metric price. And for around $70,000, you can get a watch with both iconic Rolex elements and the latest model of the 3235 movement, how can you not be tempted?
Which watch do you wear? You can order the model you like, using the same materials and the original open movement, and wear it for seven or eight years without a problem.
Since Rolex launched the new Cellini series of watches in 2014, Rolex has broken the stereotypical image that has always given people the impression that Rolex also has such a Confucian side, Rolex can also produce such a replica Rolex Cellini watches formal watch. In 2015 as well as in 2016 at Baselworld, Rolex also continued the new Cellini design style, which was quite well received, and today the watch house brings you a tasting of the new Cellini that Rolex introduced at Baselworld 2016, with the official model number: 50519.
The Cellini collection highlights the classic style and timeless elegance of traditional horology in a contemporary spirit. The Cellini Time model is the essence of a timeless classic, presenting hours, minutes, seconds and the present without distractions. The Cellini date model is an expression of elegance, tradition and poetry, with a date display on a single dial that bears witness to the passage of time.
In addition to the hours, minutes and seconds, the Cellini date model also features a date display, which is all about elegance, tradition and poetry.
Time goes on endlessly, yesterday, today, tomorrow. Every day is different and indispensable. The Cellini date model, with its additional date display in addition to the hours, minutes and seconds, is an expression of elegance, tradition and poetry.
Rolex introduces the new Cellini collection, a contemporary expression of the classic style and timeless elegance of traditional watchmaking. This new collection is made up of 12 vintage models, each of which combines technical expertise and refined craftsmanship to reveal the timelessness of Rolex’s watchmaking heritage. With their elegant lines, noble materials and refined finishes, these timepieces are in keeping with the principles of watchmaking.
All Rolex Cellini watches are made of precious metals, but replica rolex watches today’s model is made of 18-carat white gold and features the classic triangular bezel and crown in a pattern that is aesthetically pleasing and easy to set the time on.
The watch is paired with a black alligator leather strap, and the clasp features a pin buckle made of 18k white gold, with a classic Rolex crown logo on the clasp to show the brand’s confidence. The classic round shape with a diameter of 39 mm is a traditional signature of the brand, while the finely shaped lugs, the satin finish and the double bezel with its domed and triangularly pitted bezel add to the watch’s distinctive character. The dials are also a tribute to the brand’s knowledge and tradition. Each face is lacquered or decorated with the classic “Rayon flammé de la gloire” radial motif in black or silver-plated with gold applied hour markers.
What remains unchanged is the fact that the watches are not opaque, with the exception of the earlier Princes, which had an opaque back, the Rolex models are all opaque. The Rolex Top Chronometer, whose movement is mounted in the case before being tested, has an average error of plus or minus two seconds per day, twice as accurate as an ordinary chronometer-certified chronometer. The green seal, the symbol of a Top Chronometer, is attached to every Rolex watch and comes with a five-year worldwide warranty. With the new Cellini model, not much has been changed in terms of design, probably because the previous model was already perfect. The highlight of this model is the blue dial, which is a refreshing touch of elegance.
Today we’re talking about: the “artifacts” of Rolex. These interesting souvenirs replica rolex watches of the brand are rare, and even fetch high prices on certain fish. Owning them is a sign of Rolex fans everywhere. This is a rare opportunity to explain their origins.
This keychain is very exquisitely crafted and has a mirror finish on the back, so it can be used directly as a mirror. It is a gift for the media and VIPs of the 2018 Rolex Basel New Arrivals China Preview and the 50th Anniversary of the Sea Messenger model national tour. How can you tell if it’s a Rolex Triple Clasp Lock Waterproof Crown shape? The three dots beneath the crown represent the triple locking mechanism of the crown, which is equivalent to the smallest submarine hatch.
The Rolex Green Mooncake is very famous. It was launched as a media and VIP gift to commemorate the unveiling of the Rolex China Display Center, also known as the Rolex World, in September 2011. It was the eve of the Mid-Autumn Festival, which gave it its nickname, the Green Mooncake. The Rolex World – World opened from 2011 to 2018, so the Green Moon Pie continued to be released for seven years, with a profound impact and popularity.
The Ice Crust Mooncake survives in far lesser numbers than the Green Mooncake. The Ice Crust Mooncake was only released for one year, a few days to be exact. It commemorates the opening of the new Rolex showroom at Baselworld in 2013, a gift available to all Rolex-registered press and dealers who went to Baselworld that year. In other words, it was not given to those who arrived at Basel, but to those who were invited to the Rolex showroom and were able to listen to the presentation of the new product.
The ice-skinned mooncake is considerably larger than the green one, with a relief Rolex showroom on the front and a slightly sloping front, probably to make it easier for the owner to admire the design as a paperweight. The alloy large crown is very heavy, does not respond to magnets, and at first many friends thought it was copper. But later on, by measuring its density, it was indeed not copper,buy replica watches so we had to call it “Alloy Tiara”. The Alloy Crown was a gift from the 2009 Rolex “Coronet Forever” exhibition in Beijing, where 2,000 VIP guests from around the world were invited, which means there are around 2,000 of them in existence.
What was the “Coronet Forever” exhibition like? It is more than just a watch exhibition with high-tech displays such as sound and light. “The Coronet Forever is more like the centenary of Rolex. Eleven years on, the Coronet Forever exhibition remains a benchmark for mono-brand watch exhibitions.
Rolex gifts have been seen by Kang: sunglasses, folders, ballpoint pens, auctioned leather, spoons and forks, luggage tags, blankets, T-shirts, ties, golf balls, fans, chocolates, perfume….
The Oysterflex, the first Rolex rubber strap, will also be available on the Daytona, starting in 2015. Compared to steel straps, rubber straps are lighter and more resistant to water and have a longer service life than leather straps.
However, those who use rubber straps will encounter a situation where if the replica rolex watches rubber is too hard, the strap will not fit comfortably. But if the rubber is too soft, the entire strap will collapse.
To solve this problem, the Oysterflex strap is equipped with Rolex’s patented longitudinal cushioning system (green part in the picture above). The main body of the strap is still made of hard rubber, but the part that touches the wrist is very thin and light, so it fits automatically according to the curvature of the wrist. Not only is it more comfortable, but the strap does not slide easily during movement.
For added strength, the black rubber is covered with a metal plate made of “titanium-nickel alloy”, which makes the watch less susceptible to various environmental conditions, making it durable and secure to wear.
The Oysterflex strap cannot be cut because of the metal support frame inside. To make it easier to wear, the Oysterflex buckle has a 5 mm room for expansion and adjustment. However, for people with different wrist circumferences, 5 mm is not enough.
The Rolex Oysterflex bracelet is actually available in six different lengths of “C, D, E, F, G, H” for use with a specific size code on the inside of the bracelet.
If you need to replace the strap, you can ask an authorized dealer to send it to the Rolex service center on your behalf, or you can go to the service center yourself. This replacement service is free of charge, but you have to ensure that the rubber strap has not been used and that it is not too long before purchase.
Rolex itself has also made an official data sheet with recommendations for Oysterflex strap models to match the wearer’s specific wrist circumference. For example, if the wrist circumference of the Rolex Daytona is 159-170mm, it is recommended to choose the D-F size; if the wrist circumference of the Rolex Yacht Series is 193-204mm, it is more appropriate to choose the F-H size.
It is worth noting that the order of D-F can not change, the case at six o’clock position to install D, twelve o’clock position to install F. If you choose to F-D, although it can also be worn, but the position of the folding clasp will not be in the center of the inner wrist, wearing uncomfortable.
The Rolex Daytona is one of the most talked about models in the watch industry, but there’s still a lot to learn about its legend. For example, did you know that the Daytona wasn’t always Rolex’s most desirable model?
All Daytonas are Cosmographs, but not all Cosmographs are Daytonas!
The Cosmograph was first seen in the 1950s in the Rolex 6062 Oyster replica rolex watches Moonphase, which, it must be admitted, makes more sense as a model name. It then disappeared for a time until it reappeared in 1963 with the 6239.
2. The name Dittoner almost never appeared.
We remember Rolex as a very dedicated and determined watchmaking company, but this was not the case in the 1950s and 60s, when many model names were hesitant. The Submariner was almost named the “Skin Diver”; many watches were named after iconic dials and, similarly, some of the early Turn-O-Graphs bore the name “Monometer”. “; and the original plan for the Dittona was named Le Mans (Le Mans).
3. was at first a failure.
Part of the reason that hand-wound Ditonas are so valuable today is that so few were made. In fact, the Ditoner was at first a failure. When a watchman asked for a discount on a Rolex in the late 1970s, this is how the salesman responded: “I’m sorry, sir, but Rolex doesn’t sell them at a discount, but if you’d like to buy a Ditoner, I can give you a 20% discount.”
4. all gold chronographs are chronometers, but not all of them are marked
Unlike the steel and gold versions of the hand-wound Daytona, which are equipped with a movement that has only been adjusted in three directions, the gold model is an officially COSC-certified chronometer, but only the 6263 and 6265 produced in the last few years have begun to indicate this on the dial.
5. this is the model with the fewest original Rolex elements
It’s well known that hand-wound Ditonnas are powered by Valjoux movements, but less widely known is that Rolex doesn’t make cases, dials or hands either. The cases are from Charles-René Spielmann (CRS, who also makes many cases for Omega Speedmaster); the dials are from Singer, Beyeler and Stern; and the hands are from Universo and other Swiss suppliers. But the watches are assembled by Rolex and are equipped with patented Oyster crowns and water-resistance gaskets. (Photo/text Watch House Xu Chaoyang)
The Day Date II inherits the famous features of the Day Date window and the complete day of the week, while the new luxurious case establishes the exclusive status of this watch. Today, the Maison is pleased to present a brief replica rolex watches review of the Rolex Day Date model, officially numbered 218238, in precious metal.
Since its inception, the Day Date has been the choice of the elite. The Day Date II, with its larger 41 mm case, is an improvement on the original Day Date. Crafted exclusively in platinum and gold, this watch is a must-have for those seeking innovative technical achievements and classic elegance.
The Day Date II, which debuted in 2008, is made exclusively of precious metals and is an expression of all Rolex’s watchmaking excellence and expertise. The 41 mm-diameter case and bracelet in 18-carat yellow gold are the perfect embodiment of Rolex’s expertise and expertise in watchmaking.
The Day Date is a symbol of unparalleled prestige. Its Oyster case, water-resistant to 100 meters, is made of 18-carat yellow gold and is fitted with an 18-carat yellow gold case and bracelet. The distinctive middle case is made of a solid block of metal.
The Rolex Day Date II is fitted with a Führer-type bracelet and a concealed crown clasp. 18-carat yellow gold is the material of choice for the Führer’s bracelet, thanks to its exceptional resistance to corrosion and its unparalleled elegance.
The bezel has triangular grooves and the mirror is made of scratch-resistant sapphire. The hermetically sealed Oyster case of the Day Date II gives the precision movement the ultimate protection against water, dust, pressure and impacts. In addition to a small window displaying the date, the Day Date II has a curved window at 12 o’clock that displays the day of the week in its entirety. At midnight, the day of the week and the date on the watch change instantaneously at the same time, and the disc system that controls this function is a sign of mechanical ingenuity.
The winding crown of the watch is water-resistant with a Rolex patented double-locking system that allows it to be screwed securely onto the case. The crystal is made of scratch-resistant sapphire. The completely sealed Oyster case gives the precision Rolex movement the ultimate protection against water, dust, pressure and impact. It is powered by the self-winding Caliber 3156, entirely developed by Rolex, which has also been awarded the Swiss Official Chronometer Certification, reserved for precision watches that have successfully passed the Swiss Chronometer Testing Centre (COSC) tests. Like all Oyster movements, the construction of this caliber ensures unparalleled reliability. The oscillating balance is the heart of the watch and is equipped with a stabilizing balance wheel whose inertial oscillation period is precisely adjusted by the height of the gold MICROSTELLA microscopic screws. It is mounted in a PARAFLEX shock-absorbing mechanism and is securely supported by height-adjustable parallel plate bridges.
Only a Rolex watch worthy of the Rolex Day Date is worthy of its status as one of the world’s leading figures in watchmaking.
Rolex has always felt sturdy and durable, the negative impact is that Rolex is not suitable for formal wear, there is no classic Confucian models, they are more rugged watches. But in 2014, Rolex introduced a new Cellini watch, a replica rolex watches perfect formal Confucian watch presented in front of everyone, impressed, this year, in Baselworld 2016, Rolex renewed the new Cellini watch, will continue the elegant formal dress to the end, today bring this for the new Cellini time type watch, the official model of the watch is 50505.
The Rolex Cellini collection is a tribute to Benvenuto Cellini, the sculptor and goldsmith of the Pope and kings of the Renaissance, whose name Rolex has engraved with a special series of watches. The art of watchmaking has evolved from the personal domain of a single artisan to the professional collaboration of a master craftsman. Each Rolex watch is the result of a unique combination of expertise and craftsmanship.
The new Cellini watches are also available in three models, the Cellini Time, Cellini Calendar and Cellini Dual Time. Today’s model is the Rolex Cellini Time, available in 18-carat white gold or 18-carat rose gold, and is the simplest of the three models.
Today’s Rolex Cellini Time model features a 39mm diameter design and is crafted in Rolex’s patented 18ct eternal rose gold, also with a pure white dial design, and compared to the previous Cellini is a change in the watch’s hour markers, eliminating the Roman numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock.
The bezel and crown of the new Cellini are all made of precious metal, and the case is unibody, which has undergone a delicate treatment, and the bezel and crown are all designed in the classic triangular pit pattern, which is not only beautiful but also convenient when adjusting the time.
It is also powered by the self-winding Rolex caliber 3132, a Rolex model with a hermetically sealed case, except for the earlier Prince models, which had an opaque back. The average error of a Rolex Chronometer, which is tested after the movement is mounted in the case, is within plus or minus two seconds per day, twice as accurate as an ordinary chronometer-certified chronometer. The green seal, the symbol of the chronometer, is attached to every Rolex watch and comes with a five-year worldwide warranty.
There are not too many changes to the design of this new Cellini, the hour markers have been removed from the original Roman numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock, and the movement has been certified by Rolex’s own top chronometer in 2015, the Cellini is still the most formal and elegant Rolex watch.
At Baselworld 2014, Rolex unveiled the new Cellini collection. The classical and elegant shape, the precious metal material, the alligator leather strap and the traditional pin buckle all make this watch attract attention. At this year’s replica rolex watches Basel, Rolex released four new Cellini watches, and today the watch house is bringing you a newly released Cellini watch.
The four Cellini models presented at the show are gem-set Cellinis with a 39mm 18 ct white gold or eternal pink gold case and a choice of either a single bezel or a double bezel set with diamonds. The double bezel model consists of a diamond-set bezel and a classic triangular bezel.
This model (Ref. 50605RBR) is in eternal pink gold with a triangular bezel and a single bezel set with diamonds and a black dial with extended hour markers set with diamonds.
The crown of the Cellini is very beautiful, with a trumpet-shaped winding crown polished and polished and topped with an engraving of the Rolex Crown. The black crocodile leather strap is fitted with a traditional pin buckle, beautifully crafted, polished and decorated with the Rolex Crown in the center. The timeless rose gold case, with its softly curving sides and rounded polishing, has a deep, luminous shade that is typical of rose gold. The lugs are small, sleek and meticulously engraved.
The bezel, set with 62 diamonds, has a narrow outer “dogtooth ring”. A circle of diamonds and the still narrower “dogtooth ring” give the dial a more elegant look. The domed sapphire crystal, the design of the three hands, the sword-shaped hour and minute hands, the black dial, the elongated hour markers set with diamonds, the transfer of the white 60-minute circle and the Rolex crown logo set at 12 o’clock, the overall design is simple and elegant, diamonds add to the noble style. The overall design is simple and elegant, with diamonds adding to the nobility of the design. The design is basically the same as the previously introduced Cellini dual time zone dial.
The polished caseback is so closely polished that it could be used as a mirror. The Rolex Caliber 3132 is a self-winding, bi-directional movement. It is equipped with a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and a high-performance Paraflex shock-absorbing mechanism to make the watch more resistant to magnetic fields and shocks. This movement is also used in the Explorer I, which is stable and durable. Rolex has said that Cellini is in the spirit of highlighting the classic style and timeless elegance of traditional timepieces in a contemporary spirit. This collection is indeed one of the most classical and elegant in the Rolex world, with a discreet black dial, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds, and a robust mechanical movement inside. The watch is ideal for the successful businessman.
Does everyone love Rolexes? Everyone has an answer to that question. Undoubtedly, Rolex has a very high status in the watch industry and no one can shake it. When I was a child, the Hong Kong movie “You have to work hard to get what you earn” was deeply burned into my mind, when I grew up, I was able to own a Rolex, which became our goal and guide to move forward. Why does everyone love Rolex? It’s an interesting proposition.
Three years later, Hans Wilsdorf adopted “Rolex” as the brand’s name. I tried almost every letter of the alphabet and came up with hundreds of names, but none of them really suited me,” he says. One morning I was sitting on the upper deck of a public coach passing through Chippsay Street in the City of London when I thought I heard a small pixie voice whispering, ‘Rolex’.”
A lean, easy-to-read name, easier to remember than any language, and aesthetically pleasing on the watch movement and dial. It’s a marketing replica rolex watches strategy success story. When “Rolex” was first introduced to the Chinese market, the people who translated it into “Rolex” also contributed to its success.
Back to the watch’s roots – precision
I’m not good at marketing, back to the watch itself. When it comes to Rolex, the quest for precision is a constant quest for the brand. As early as 1910, Rolex was the first watch to be awarded the Swiss Watch Rating Centre in Bienne, Switzerland, with a Swiss Time Certificate. As complicated as it may sound, the simple fact is that obtaining this certification was not easy and the tests to be passed were extremely demanding. Being the first watch to achieve this certification proves that Rolex has historically demanded a high degree of precision.
Four years later, Rolex was awarded the “A” certificate by the Kew Observatory, a symbol of precision watchmaking ever since. To this day, Rolex watches are still proud of their small daily errors.
Rolex is still “young” when compared to watchmaking brands with a history of two or three centuries. But Rolex’s history is well documented, with changes and innovations at every stage of the brand’s history, which spans more than a hundred years.
-A traceable trajectory of the brand’s history, both classic and innovative.
Take the new Rolex Logbook 36, launched this year, for example, the Logbook is a classic Rolex model, which was born in 1945 and has been in development for more than 70 years. The Rolex Logbook model is indeed hard to beat in terms of both functionality and aesthetic design. It is distinguished by the use of Rolex’s iconic Oyster case, triangular pit bezel and Oyster bracelet. The Logger is a classic watch that combines these three elements in a single watch.
This year, Rolex is presenting the new Oyster Perpetual Chronograph 36 in a choice of steel (Oyster and 18ct eternal rose gold) or yellow gold (Oyster and 18ct yellow gold) versions, each with a choice of dials. In addition to the design innovations, Rolex does not disappoint when it comes to movement performance. The new Oyster Perpetual Chronograph is equipped with the new generation 3235 calibre, equipped with the exclusive Parachrom blue niobium hairspring, a unique alloy with enhanced anti-magnetic properties and 10 times higher shock resistance than the traditional hairspring.
Who says only men love Rolex? Women’s passion for Rolex is also hard to quench. Not only can Rolex be worn by men and women, but this year, the brand has also brought a new Logbook 31 for these Rolex-loving women – available in three models: the 18ct white gold, 18ct yellow gold and 18ct eternal rose gold models. The Oyster Perpetual Chronograph, pictured above, is in 18t white gold, with a bezel set with sparkling diamonds and mother-of-pearl again using the diamonds as a time indicator, a luxurious detail in every sense of the word. The combination of diamonds, mother-of-pearl and precious metals, all without ostentation, makes this a very sincere gift from Rolex to any woman.
Speaking of Rolex’s new products for 2018, the “Pepsi Circle” – the Rolex GMT Master II – was also a hot topic at Baselworld earlier this year. In 1955, ten years after the launch of the Rolex Logbook, Rolex released the first Greenwich model, which has since become one of the most popular of Rolex’s many collections.
The highlight of the new “Pepsi Circle”, and one of the most talked about, was the combination of the two-tone red and blue ceramic bezel with the stainless steel case, which was presented on a “five-bead chain” with the 18ct white gold “Pepsi Circle” of the previous model. The new “Pepsi Bezel” is distinguished by the fact that it is made of steel, which marks a reduction in the fair price of the “Pepsi Bezel”. The new “Pepsi Bezel” marks a major breakthrough in the choice of materials for the case: it is made of steel, which means that the price of the “Pepsi Bezel” will be lower. The new Pepsi Bezel is equipped with a new movement, Calibre 3285, which increases the power reserve from 48 hours to 70 hours.
Perhaps one of the reasons for Rolex’s success is its “restlessness”. There is no such thing as “eating the same old stuff”, and standing on the classics to make more innovations and breakthroughs is the key to check and balance. Sometimes, though, these breakthroughs may be too much to accept at the moment. One of them, including the use of precious metals, precious stones on the tool watch such designs.
Another Rolex bombshell in 2018 was the launch of the new “rainbow circle”, the Oyster Cosmograph Daytona chronograph. This is not the first time Rolex has launched a “rainbow circle” Daytona, either. In 2012, Rolex already presented the first Rainbow Daytona at Baselworld. This is not only a classic collection that is still very popular today, but also one that has been around since 1963, when it was first launched. Nowadays, both in the primary market and secondary auction market, the market response to the Rolex Daytona has been very enthusiastic. This shows that consumers are very satisfied with the design and performance of the Deatonnas.
The new “rainbow circle” still features the three iconic sub-plates, the Oyster bracelet, and a pink gold case instead of the white and yellow gold of the previous model. The most striking feature of the bezel is the circle of carefully selected, polished and aligned stones, each of which has been carefully selected by the watchmakers. Each stone has to pass through the watchmaker’s careful inspection process in order to produce an impeccable piece. This new “rainbow circle” will not be produced in high volume, but only in small batches. If you have a chance to get your hands on one, it’s best to do so before it’s too late.
The new Rolex Deep Submersible, the 2018 “Ghost King”, is still made of Rolex’s patented Oystersteel, with a D-blue (dark blue gradient to black) dial. In fact, in 2014, the brand launched the Oystersteel gradient dial as a tribute to the challenges of deep-sea exploration.
The new “Ghost King” has not changed much in terms of design and the brand has focused on the movement. Equipped with the new self-winding caliber 3235, it offers improved stability, shock resistance and anti-magnetic properties. The “Demon King” is aimed at people who have a higher demand for diving, or who have a greater need for presence.
To sum up, the reasons for Rolex’s success are not complicated: the key to success lies in maintaining the original vision, working hard on the watchmaking process and returning to the product itself. Why does everyone love Rolex? Because it’s precise enough that it brings back the magic of machinery; it’s also iconic enough that it can even represent an era that no one knows about or knows the name of. What do you think of when you think of Rolex?
Each revolution in movement technology is an exploration of the frontiers of mechanical watchmaking, which may go down in history or be short-lived, but replica replica Rolex Day Date watches the infinite possibilities are always the ones that tug at the heartstrings of watch lovers. Rolex, a famous Geneva-based watchmaking company, is a legend in the world of watchmaking, with no superlative complications, no finely polished movements, and no limited editions.
Since the middle of the last century, the shapes of Rolex’s major collections have evolved subtly without ever deviating from the norm, and the technology of the movements has continued to break new ground and evolve, but rarely on the surface, so much so that without careful questioning, you can’t be sure exactly how different the watch and the movement are from what they used to be. Last year (2015), Rolex unveiled two new calibers: the Cal.3235 and the Cal.3255. The Cal.3055 came along with the Cal.3155 when the Cal.3135 replaced the Cal.3035 in 1988.
Cal.3035 to Cal.3135, and Cal.3135 to Cal.3235 – basically the layout of the movement. A very significant adjustment has been made, and the difference between these numbers is obvious. The difference between the Cal.3135 and Cal.3136 is mainly due to the change of the shock absorber KIF to the Rolex patented Paraflex, while the change of the numbering of the movement is a direct consequence of the complete change in the function and type of movement, indicating two completely different movements.
So the Cal.3255, new for 2015, is fundamentally different from the previous Cal.3155, but not yet beyond the type of movement; they are both exclusive to day of the week calendar-type watches (DD for short). So what’s the difference? I think most of the differences were already known at the beginning of the year, such as the 50% reduction in the barrel wall, the new paramagnetic Chronergy escapement (15% more efficient), the 50% slimmer escapement fork tile, the increase in the power reserve to 70 hours, the redesign or modification of more than 90% of the movement’s components, the doubling of the accuracy of the original chronometer-certified movement, and the 14 patents! And so on. But there is one rather detailed change that is less well known, a modest but conspicuous change that should in fact not be overlooked, and that is the fine adjustment screws on the swing bridge plate.
Speaking of this fine adjustment screw, it was first introduced in the 3XXX base movement, but not until 2015, so it’s not new technology, but it’s a modest change to Cal.3235 or Cal.3255. Before we get to the fine-tuning screw, the first thing we’ll talk about is the fine-tuning screw hidden underneath it, in Cal.3235/Cal.3255, the balance bridge has been very significantly modified compared to its predecessor, except for the fact that the clip that used to hold it in place with a screw above the bridge has disappeared, and the two fine-tuning screws that used to be underneath the bridge are now only one. The function of these screws is to fine-tune the amount of balance clearance by adjusting the position of the bridge plate, during the installation process, the position deviation of the bridge plate will directly affect the position of the pendulum, thus affecting the running time. These two fine-tuning screws, which have been available since Rolex transitioned from the single bridges (bars) of the 30XX, to the 31XX series of movements, show that while the two-arm bridges are more stable and reliable than the original single-arm bridges, and have better positional accuracy, they are not perfect, and there is no room for fine-tuning in the event of positional deviations.
In all modern Rolex movements, as long as the balance structure of the double arm bridges, there is a fine-tuning structure under the bridges, a move that ensures that even after years of use, if the pendulum or the bridges are out of position, there is still a way to make adjustments without having to replace parts, which provides greater convenience for later maintenance and repair. As the advantages of the stability of the double-arm bridges have become more well known, many brands are using them, such as the new generation of coaxial movements such as Omega’s 85xx and 9xxx series, as well as Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, etc., but without exception, with the exception of Rolex, which uses fine-adjustment screws under the pendulum bridges, none of the other brands have a similar fine-adjustment structure (patent implications?). (I wonder if any of my cousins know about this).
In Rolex’s 31XX series movements, underneath the bridges were two micro-adjustment screws, their edges, both partially exposed, and the baseplate next to them would leave some space for tools to fine-tune the two screws. With the 2015 32XX line of movements, this all changed, the micro-adjustment screw on one side of the bridge plate was eliminated and the other side was still there, but out of thin air, a graduated micro-adjustment screw appeared. In the official Rolex literature, this structure is ignored because it is not new technology and has been “in use” for 16 years.
The fine-tuning screw, in fact, has a gear underneath and engages with the original fine-tuning screw at the bottom. The advantage of having scales is obvious, as they are very easy to quantify and the amount of fine adjustment that can be made per scale should be documented in the official internals. The elimination of a single fine adjustment screw is probably due to the fact that unilateral fine adjustments are considered sufficient, and two-sided fine adjustments are inevitably more cumbersome and less accurate than one side. As previously mentioned, this technology is not new, and looking at all recent Rolex movements, the structure has been in its infancy since the introduction of the 2230 (2235) in 1999, when the additional fine adjustment screw, which was not yet graduated or integrated into the balance bridge, was introduced.
By the year 2000, following a series of changes in the structure of the movement and its components, the Cal. 4130 chronograph movement using this structure, which replaced the 4030 calibre that had been in use for eleven years since 1989, was also semi-integrated into the balance-plate (in 2235, the fine adjustment screw was not secured by a whole plate, in 4130, it shared the balance-plate with the fine adjustment screw). In 2012, the Rolex Sky-Dweller was launched, equipped with the new Cal.9001 automatic movement developed by Rolex, and instead of making the fine-tuning structure of the bridge more streamlined, it became much more complex, with two fine-tuning screws of the 31XX series, one next to each of the fine-tuning screws, and one fine-tuning screw on the bottom of the bridge. “Hide” it.
By 2015 in the 32XX series, the entire fine-tuned structure of the original 41XX series movement was simply integrated into the oscillating bridge plate, and also made to scale. So, it’s not a new technology, but it has evolved, even more so in the 3XXX series for the first time. Rolex movements have always been known for their precision and durability, and behind this, in addition to having many special materials and structures patented by Rolex, a more important point is that most of the components in a Rolex movement can be readjusted at a later stage of maintenance, rather than having to be replaced, so that even a Rolex watch from decades ago can still keep time accurately after maintenance. The silicon hairspring, which was very popular a few years ago, is also fading away in recent years. The main reason is that silicon is too brittle and can only be replaced when damaged. So a really good watch, in addition to good to go now, decades or even hundreds of years later, whether it is easy to be saved is equally important, and undoubtedly, Rolex durability is also reflected in this point.